Archives de catégorie : Histoires d’objets

Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715–2015, LACMA

Walter Van Beirendonck Belgium, born 1957 Ensemble from the "Revolution" collection Fall/Winter 2000--2001 Gift of Walter Van Beirendonck M.2014.87.5a--f
Walter Van Beirendonck
Belgium, born 1957
Ensemble from the « Revolution » collection
Fall/Winter 2000–2001
Gift of Walter Van Beirendonck
M.2014.87.5a–f

Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715–2015 explores the history of men’s fashionable dress from the eighteenth century to the present and re-examines the all-too-frequent equation of “fashion” with “femininity.”

Beginning with the 18th century, the male aristocrat wore a three-piece suit conspicuous in make and style, and equally as lavish as the opulent dress of his female counterpart. The 19th-century “dandy” made famous a more refined brand of expensive elegance which became the hallmark of Savile Row. The mid-twentieth-century “mod” relished in the colorful and modern styles of Carnaby Street, and the 21st century man—in an ultra-chic “skinny suit” by day and a flowered tuxedo by night—redefines today’s concept of masculinity.

Drawing primarily from LACMA’s renowned collection, Reigning Men makes illuminating connections between history and high fashion. The exhibition traces cultural influences over the centuries, examines how elements of the uniform have profoundly shaped fashionable dress, and reveals how cinching and padding the body was, and is, not exclusive to women. The exhibition features 200 looks, and celebrates a rich history of restraint and resplendence in menswear.

On now until Sunday, 21 august 2016

http://www.lacma.org/ReigningMen#highlights

Botticelli Reimagined, V&AM

This exhibition explores the enduring impact of the Florentine painter Sandro Botticelli from the Pre-Raphaelites to today.

Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510) is recognised as one of the greatest artists of all time. His celebrated images are firmly embedded in public consciousness and his influence permeates art, design, fashion and film.

On now until Sunday, 3 July 2016, Victoira and Albert Museum, London

by David LaChapelle, 2009, Creative Exchange Agency, New York, Steven Pranica / Studio LaChapelle. © David LaChapelle
by David LaChapelle, 2009, Creative Exchange Agency, New York, Steven Pranica / Studio LaChapelle. © David LaChapelle

Source : https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/botticelli-reimagined

Fashion. Critical and Primary Sources, Editor(s): Peter McNeil

Fashion. Critical and Primary Sources

Editor(s): Peter McNeil
Berg, 2004, 4 vol.

Winner of the Art Association of Australia and New Zeland prize for Best Edited Book, 2010.

Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources is a major multi-volume work of reference which brings together seminal writings on Fashion. The geographical range of the essays crosses Europe, Asia and North America.

The essays reveal the wide set of methodological approaches which all bear on the study of Fashion – Sociology, Art History and Cultural History, Anthropology, Social Theory, Dress and Textile Studies. Ordered chronologically, the four volumes cover Late Medieval to Renaissance, the Eighteenth Century, the Nineteenth Century and the Twentieth Century to today.

Each volume is separately introduced and the essays structured into coherent sections on specific themes. Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources will prove a major scholarly resource for any researchers involved in the study of Fashion, Dress and Costume. – See more at:

Table Of Contents
VOLUME 1: LATE MEDIEVAL TO RENAISSANCE
SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART I: GRACEFUL OR MAGNIFICENT: FASHION AND AESTHETICS
1. Costume and Fashion Fernand Braudel
2. Fashion in French Crusade Literature: Desiring Infidel Textiles Sarah-Grace Heller
3. Art and Life: The Aesthetic Sentiment Johan Huizinga
4. The Medieval Aesthetic Sensibility Umberto Eco
5. Society and Festivals Jacob Burckhardt
6. Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century Anne F. Sutton
7. Summer: The Last Century, 1550-1644 Timothy Brook
PART 2: FASHION, APPEARANCE AND CULTURAL ORDER
8. Between Clothing and Nudity Mario Perniola
9. Women and Sumptuary Law Catherine Kovesi Killerby
10. The Upward Training of the Body from the Age of Chivalry to Courtly Civility Georges Vigarello
11. The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England Will Fisher
12. Appearances Georges Vigarello
PART 3: FASHION’S FORMS – CUSTOMS AND FOREIGNERS
13. The Devil and His Striped Clothes, 13th-16th Centuries Michel Pastoureau
14. Venice and the Dress of Foreigners Stella Mary Newton
15. Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies Bronwen Wilson
16. Sewing Connections: Elizabeth Tudor, Mary Stuart, Elizabeth Talbot, and Seventeenth-century Anonymous Needleworkers Susan Frye
17. Feathers and Flies: Aphra Behn and the Seventeenth-century Trade in Exotica Margaret W. Ferguson
PART 4: TRADING IN LOOKS
18. Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the Mid-thirteenth Century Kay Staniland
19. The Currency of Clothing Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass
20. Gendered Space in Renaissance Florence: Theorizing Public and Private in the ‘Rag Trade’ Carole Collier Frick
21. The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century N.B. Harte
22. The Cost of Apparel in Seventeenth-century England, and the Accuracy of Gregory King Margaret Spufford
PART 5: FASHION AND REINFORCEMENT
23. Looks and Appearance Baldesar Castiglione
24. Gesture, Ritual and Social Order in Sixteenth to Eighteenth-century Poland Maria Bogucka
25. Prescribing Literature: Dress, Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-century Italian Conduct Literature Elizabeth Currie
26. Masculine Apparel Stephen Orgel
27. To Fashion a Self: Dressing in Seventeenth-century England Sue Vincent
28. ‘Twisted’ Poses. The Kabuku Aesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting John T. CarpenterVOLUME 2: THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION

PART 1: THE POWER OF DRESS
1. The Cavaliers and the Parvenus as Imitators of the Court Werner Sombart
2. Lord Chesterfield’s Letters to his Son, 1750-1751 The Earl of Chesterfield
3. Regrets on Parting with my Old Dressing Gown, or A Warning to Those Who Have More Taste than Fortune Denis Diderot
4. Eros and Liberty at the English Masquerade, 1710-1790 Terry Castle
5. Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France Lynn Hunt
PART 2: FASHION – ART – ARTIFICE
6. The Purged Century Piero Camporesi
7. Popular Dress Daniel Roche
8. Image-Object-Space Katie Scott
9. The Artistic Expression of Iki [Chic] Kuki Shûzô
10. Street Style: Dress in John Gay’s ‘Trivia’ Aileen Ribeiro
11. Nature and Artifice Georges Vigarello
12. Fleshing Out the Revolution Ewa Lajer-Burcharth
PART 3: FASHION AND THE APPEARANCE INDUSTRIES
13. Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries Lorna Weatherill
14. European Consumption and Asian Production in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries John E. Wills, Jr.
15. Taxes upon consumable commodities, 1776 Adam Smith
16. The Queen and Her ‘Minister of Fashion’: Gender, Credit and Politics in Pre-Revolutionary France Clare Haru Crowston
17. The Production and Marketing of Populuxe Goods in Eighteenth-century Paris Cissie Fairchilds
18. Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain, 1750-1800 Beverly Lemire
19. Involuntary Consumers? Servants and Their Clothes in Eighteenth-century England John StylesVOLUME 3: THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART 1: FASHION AND URBAN LIFE
1. Adolf Loos and the English Dandy Jules Lubbock
2. The Treatises of Dandyism Rhonda K. Garelick
3. The Invisible Flâneur Elizabeth Wilson
4. The Actress: Covent Garden and The Strand, 1880-1914 Christopher Breward
5. The Suffrage Response Joel H. Kaplan and Sheila Stowell
6. ‘Tigersprung’: Fashioning History Ulrich Lehmann
PART 2: FROM THE LOVE OF FINERY TO HONEST CLOTH
7. The Love of Finery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-century Social Discourse Mariana Valverde
8. The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman Helene E. Roberts
9. Dress Reform as Antifeminism David Kunzle
10. Reply to David Kunzle, ‘Dress Reform as Antifeminism’ Helene E. Roberts
11. Fashion – Jewellery Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarmé)
12. Fashion Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarmé)
13. Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000 Michelle Maskiell
14. The Management of Colour: The Kashmir Shawl in a Nineteenth-century Debate David Brett
15. Sartorial Ideologies: From Homespun to Ready-made Michael Zakim
16. Cheap Mass-produced Men’s Clothing in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries Sarah Levitt
PART 3: NINETEENTH-CENTURY FASHION AS FEMALE CULTURE
17. Invisible Clothing Philippe Perrot
18. Wool Cloth and Gender: The Use of Woollen Cloth in Women’s Dress in Britain, 1865-85 Lou Taylor
19. Materializing Mourning: Hair, Jewellery and the Body Marcia Pointon
20. Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the Late Nineteenth-century Fashion Journal Christopher Breward
21. « A Dream of Fair Women »: Revival Dress and the Formation of Late Victorian Images of Femininity Margaret Maynard
22. Femme Fatale: Fashion and Visual Culture in Fin-de-siècle Paris Valerie Steele
23. Sex and the City: Metropolitan Modernities in English History Margot C. Finn

VOLUME 4: THE TWENTIETH CENTURY TO TODAY
SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART 1: FASHION’S STRUCTURES
1. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture Thorstein Veblen
2. The Philosophy of Fashion; and Adornment Georg Simmel
3. The Economic and Social Role of Fashion Pierre Clerget
4. The Cerementing of the Gentleman Gerald Heard
5. The Predominance of Male Homosociality J.C. Flügel
6. Epilogue on Trousers Eric Gill
7. The Functions of Folk Costume in Moravian Slovakia Petr Bogatyrev
8. An Economic Interpretation of Women’s Fashions Paul M. Gregory
PART 2: FASHION AND FANTASY
9. Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming Murray Wax
10. The Economics of Fashion Demand Dwight E. Robinson
11. From Gemstones to Jewellery Roland Barthes
PART 3: FASHION AND IDENTITY
12. Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection Herbert Blumer
13. Why the Midi Failed Fred D. Reynolds and William R. Darden
14. The Production of Belief: Contribution to an Economy of Symbolic Goods Pierre Bourdieu
15. Fashion Shapes: Film, the Fashion Industry and the Image of Women Maureen Turim 16. Other People’s Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia Karen Tranberg Hansen
PART 4: FASHION AND AESTHETICS
17. To Cut is to Think Germano Celant
18. Illuminations – Warhol in the 1950s Richard Martin
19. The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela Caroline Evans
20. Art, Fashion and Music in the Culture Society Angela McRobbie
21. Vionnet & Classicism Rebecca Arnold
22. Paul Poiret’s Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction and Art in Fashion Nancy Troy
23. Hollywood Glamour and Mass Consumption in Postwar Italy Stephen Gundle
24. Magic Fashion Elizabeth Wilson – See more at: http://www.bloomsbury.com/au/fashion-9781847882929/#sthash.HXyka2jV.dpuf

http://www.bloomsbury.com/au/fashion-9781847882929/#sthash.HXyka2jV.dpuf